To Do in the Zone 7 Garden in June

It's the last month of Spring...how is your garden growing? Here's a photo I took after this morning's coffee walk...peas and carrots...and one ginormous onion! The "English" peas are winding down, the carrots are finally ready, and the onions just might take over our world...wow!

By now in Zone 7, you should be well into your planting of warm season vegetables: tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash, melons, cucumbers, okra, and Southern peas are all in the ground here in The Way Back Kitchen Garden. I chose to forgo eggplants this year since we are neither big fans.

And, like us, you are probably pulling up many of the cool season crops as they begin to bolt and go to seed. I made a contribution to the compost bin this weekend as I replaced the broccoli, cabbage, spinach, and bolting lettuce plants (all in the raised beds in the Box Garden) with plantings of a variety of bush beans and some Salad Bowl lettuce that is supposed to withstand the coming Summer heat "better." I'm giving it a good chance by planting it against the west-side boards on the raised beds (which will provide shade from the harsh setting sun) and under the cucumber trellis frame, over in the Row Garden...again for added protection.

I also decided to devote one box (L-shaped, with the equivalent of 3 3x3 squares...or 27 square feet, if you do the math) to a tomato trial. Last year, you may recall I put three Sun Gold tomato suckers I'd rooted in this box...one in each 3x3 square. And they thrived, to put it mildly. 

When our first frost threatened last Fall, I harvested all the remaining tomatoes, green and gold ones, and turned them into Green Tomato Relish (great on hot dogs...and black-eyed peas, by the way!). But I didn't pull the plants. Well, they survived that first frost. We had another warm spell, as we often do...and the plants flowered again...and more Sun Golds arrived. But many of these fell into the box when I did finally pull the plants. I tried to remove as many as I could, but apparently missed as many as I got. 

I didn't plant this box with cool season veggies, as I was going to let it rest. Nature had other plans! Before I knew it, I had worlds of tiny Sun Gold tomato plants. Good grief! Knowing that SG is a hybrid tomato, I "knew" that I couldn't count on any of these reseeded babies to produce fruit like the 3 parent SG plants. But, what would the fruit look like? And would there be any fruit at all? Sounds like an experiment to me!

I pulled all except three "baby" plants...the ones that had seeded themselves in the center of their respective squares, more or less. I wanted to see what I will get from the seedlings of hybrid plants. Well, one question is answered: will they fruit? Yes! The three remaining (and many of the ones I removed) have all flowered and are developing tomatoes...and they look just like the tiny bunches of Sun Golds that the parent plants produced last year. I'll report back on how the reseeded plants' fruit tastes soon. Very soon!

Additionally, I seeded my garden borders with marigolds and zinnias, using the seed-heads we save every year after frost kills off our favorite annuals. The seeds we harvested last Fall are descendants of flowers we had around our garden in O'Fallon, MO...over 5 years ago. The originals were hybrids, so the first generation of plants from the saved seeds weren't "true," but subsequent flowers are pretty reliable. And the whole point is to get lots of flowers to attract pollinators...without spending a fortune. Check!

Speaking of pollinators...

Mr. T cleaned and cultivated the Pollinator Garden, which starts its second full year in the Orchard. The pineapple lilies we purchased at the Daylily farm in Garner last year have all survived this past Winter (how, I will never know!) and are sending up reddish-purple leaves. I set out tiny transplants of zinnias and marigolds (started from purchased seeds), plus some Root-tone-dipped cuttings of the Moonlight mums and Shasta daisies, which are thriving elsewhere on our property. I also planted a few sunflower seeds, but I think the crows were observing me from their high perch on the transmission line tower...and will probably make a meal out of my efforts before I can say "shoo!"

So what else is on this month's checklist? Here goes:

Checklist for Zone 7 Gardens:

• Mulch container gardens to help retain moisture in the coming hot weather, using a top-dressing of compost
• Remove Spring annuals as the weather heats up
• Set out seedlings of warm-weather annuals; direct-sow seeds of annuals like nasturtiums. 
• Prune and fertilize spring-blooming vines such as clematis and wisteria after they bloom
• Fertilize and prune spring-blooming shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons after they bloom
• As vegetable plants start to flower, begin regular feeding with diluted fish emulsion
• To direct growth of new canes, pinch tips off of blackberries and young grapevines
• Keep blueberry bushes well-weeded and well-watered as their fruit ripens; wait until after the harvest to prune and fertilize
• Weed strawberry beds and add a mulch of compost topped with a layer of straw
• Prune indeterminate tomatoes by removing suckers and topping off the main vine as it reaches the height of its cage and/or stake; try rooting a couple of the hardy suckers to have more plants.
• Sow seeds of heat-loving vegetables (squash, pumpkins, melons) directly into the ground
• Continue to feed roses monthly and treat with a 3-in-1 systemic per label instructions; deadhead as they finish their first round of blooming
• Prune once-blooming roses after they've flowered this month
• Check the undersides of leaves of warm season veggie plants like squash, tomatoes, cukes, and melons for the eggs of pests such as the potato beetle, squash bugs, etc. Squish ALL eggs...or if that doesn't sound like fun, remove the egg-infested leaf and put it in a container (I use a 3-lb coffee canister) half-filled with soapy water; ditto with any adult pests you see. Don't just leave the eggs! The goal is to keep the next generation of pests from hatching. The more pests, the less produce. Simple math.

June is a busy month in the Way Back gardens, as we transition from one season to another. Happy hoeing!

May Has Arrived...Finally

Crazy weather this year has made for a slow start in the Kitchen Garden...and much loss in the other gardens. Sigh. 

Of course, I can't blame being behind the times all on the weather. There was my cataract surgery and recovery...then came the 12 days away from home when we went to Louisville...and then I spent the past week attending the NCEMGVA Conference in Winston-Salem. And while I was learning more about gardening (but not actually gardening), the weather flipped straight into Summer...91 today. Double sigh. 

I did want to share some of the fruits of our labors with you. Here's a picture of our first cutting of broccoli, along with some asparagus. 

We had cut some yesterday to grill along with some salmon steaks, so the pickings appear slim; still, the 4-year old asparagus bed is yielding more than enough for the two of us. Out in the Raised Beds, our lettuces (red and green romaine, along with Buttercrunch and Red Sails) look fabulous, and our spinach is quite healthy and productive. We probably have enough onions to supply a small restaurant, because I am trialing using onions extensively in the (red) cabbage bed to help reduce the number of cabbage worms. Seems to be working well. And the carrots and peas are finally joining the party. So, the cool season crops are doing well, even with their slow start to 2014. 

But I'm almost embarrassed to report we haven't put in a single Warm Season transplant or seeded a single crop in the Row Garden yet...and it's almost Mother's Day. Triple sigh.

Time to get down to business! Here's what's on our 'To Do' List for May*:

Kitchen Garden:

·         May 1^st is the beginning of the recommended planting time for bush lima beans (through July 1^st), okra (through May 31^st), and both sweet and hot peppers (through May 31^st ).  May 15^th marks the date to begin planting sweet potatoes (through June 15^th).  I've got my work cut out for me, don't I?

·         I'll also be planting pole beans (through July 1^st), cantaloupe/muskmelons (through June 1^st), sweet corn (through June 1^st), cucumbers (through May 15^th), pumpkins (through June 15^th), summer and winter squash (through May 15^th), tomato plants (through July 15^th), and watermelons (through June 1^st).

·         When setting out tomato plants, we set up stakes or cages so we won’t disturb the roots later.  I try to remove any suckers to encourage the plant’s energy be used for larger fruit rather than side shoots, and I remove all branches below the first flowers to encourage a string central stem...and to discourage pests. (I always attempt to root the suckers; many times I'm lucky and get a freebie tomato!)

·         We'll be planting beans (pole and bush) and corn, make successive plantings every two weeks to ensure a longer harvest. I did get some English-style runner beans and some Kentucky Wonder pole beans planted around the tuteur last weekend. We will need to set up a bean "fence" in Row #3 this year (factoring in crop rotation, by moving everything one row east each year...alaman right!) to provide support for the main crop of Kentucky Wonders. 

·         I've started seeds and hope to plant basil and dill directly in the garden this month. I took cuttings of mint and divisions of chives from Missy M's herb garden, and I want to get them settled into their new abodes here in HPNC.

Orchard and Berry Patch:

·         I will fertilize the blueberries, blackberries, and grapes this month. All are looking healthy and show signs of a great year...fingers crossed! Read more about it in the NC Cooperative Extension publication Grapes and Berries for the Garden.

·         I'll need to spray the fruit trees with the first spray after fruit set. Sadly, the extremely cold winter and the late freeze on April 14-16 probably means a rather anemic crop. There will be no pears or plums, and few peaches and apples...if the squirrels don't get them again this year. The only heavy fruit-set has occurred on the crabapples. 

Rose Garden (and perennials and annuals):

·         To prevent black spot and control pests on roses, I will use the 6-week systemic 3-in-1 variety.   The latest research says NOT to remove black spot infected leaves UNTIL you don't see anymore green...thereby giving your rose bush all the help it needs in continuing to produce chlorophyll.

·         We will prepare a couple new beds for summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds, and zinnias...possibly by the fence, so there will be a good backdrop.

• Additionally, on our list is to document all the roses we lost to weather this year. I already know about the following: 3 Always and Forever, 2 Cinnamon Girls, 2 First Prizes, and one each Kordes Perfecta and Pope John Paul. We also had to remove my absolute all-time favorite floribunda, Mardi Gras, which was showing signs of rose rosette disease (which is always fatal). Here's what it looked like in years past:

Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees in the Front and Back yard gardens:

·         It’s time to plant summer-flowering bulbs, especially caladiums and gladioli. I already have some glads coming up that seem to have made it through the winter we had.  We shall see...

Our rhodo in full bloom in early May.
Time to fertilize and prune after blooming.

·         We (read this 'we' as Mr. T) need to remove broadleaf weeds from all landscape planting areas. If left to grow, they will rob water and nutrients from our plants, and they make the gardens look so untidy in any photos. He is a weeder-fanatic, so naturally I encourage him to play to his strengths!

Lawns and Grasses

·         According to the Home Lawn Calendar for May from the Center for Turfgrass Environmental Research and Education at NC State, we need to mow tall fescue lawns at 3 to 3 ½”, and at least once each week.  This article also encourages grasscycling, which is the practice of leaving grass clippings on the lawn.  “Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of the lawn's fertilizer needs.”  We actually use the clippings from the Way Back (around the Orchard and the Berry Patch) to "feed" the compost piles.  Good as gold!

·         Since lawns need 1 to 1 ¼ inches of water per week, it's time to get the irrigation system going for the year. 

Other             

• We will take some time to enjoy the butterflies, honeybees, and hummingbirds! As you know, I love taking loads of photos!! To try to keep our property productive as well as pretty...and to protect these beautiful creatures...if I need to use a pesticide, I use Neem Oil, which is marketed as an Organic spray. Still, it is still toxic to bees...so I don't spray in the morning when bees are most active.
• We have moved all the plants that wintered on the plasticized screen porch out to their summer spots, including the three citrus trees. The Improved Meyer Lemon and the Orange trees are both flowering profusely, while the lemon tree I started from seeds from a lemon from my Aunt's house in Arizona still hasn't flowered...but is beautiful and green nonetheless. We have moved this big tree in its container across state lines a couple of times now, so it's with us to stay no matter.
• After incorporating the finished compost into our garden, we began a new compost batch in our barrel. I hope to get a worm or two or ten working this time, so must remember to feed and water the pile regularly. 

Remember, May is Melanoma/Skin Cancer Detection and Awareness Month.  Before you dash outside to your May gardening activities, put on a hat, sunglasses, and adequate sunscreen protection. Well, I can say with certainty that I get two out of the three!

Happy hoeing!


==================================
* This May To Do List is updated and revised from an article I had published on GoGreenTriad.com in 2011.

Here's What Spring Brings

March is always a busy month in our Zone 7 garden...with far more items on the To Do List than decent days to do the To Do's! With our wacky, wintry weather still hanging around (we had snow flurries on Tuesday of this week!), we have had to cram a lot into shorter blocks of time.

What we have done so far in March:

►Celebrating St. Patrick's Day is a good reminder that it's time to plant potatoes. We have used grow bags successfully for several years now (remember? I have posted about them before here...:-), and this year is no different. I've planted 10 bags so far (2 more to go) with Kennebec, Yukon Gold, Midnight Moon, and Russet. I have seen tiny green shoots in the very first bag of Russets I planted, so that means they survived some pretty chilly temps. 

►Planted 6 new bareroot roses in the Rose Garden: 3 Midas Touch (AARS), and 1 each Sweetness, Lagerfeld, and Wild Blue Yonder (AARS winner...& dedicated to my Daddy, who often sang the Army Air Corps (now Air Force) song: "Off we go into the wild, blue yonder, flying high into the sun..."). Also we (and by "we," I mean Mr. T...;-) transplanted the two Cinnamon Girl miniature roses that survived the winter from their containers to the Rose Garden, replacing the two First Prizes (AARS) that did not survive the polar vortex. Sun Sprinkles, the 3 AARS-winning miniatures also in containers, seemed to have fared a bit better, so I just pruned them lightly.

►Noticed that 10 of the "cuttings" I kept when I pruned the roses in February are showing some new growth and promise of tiny root hairs. Got them in pots and covered with plastic. We'll see if I get any new roses this year...fingers crossed!

Compost Happens!

►Added the contents of the compost barrel to the Row Garden (as you see in the photo left), along with shredded leaves, pulverized (powdered...so it will break down faster) lime, and 10-10-10 fertilizer. Then turned the rows and hilled them back up. After a couple of weeks, I'll cover them with landscape fabric like I did last year. Interestingly enough, I heard an Ag agent from another county speak last week, and he advised against covering the soil in this manner. Hmmmmm. Since we had such fantastic results with our trial last year, I think I will have to go against his advise and rely on my experience. I happen to like not having to weed...& and there is no denying our soil looks great!

►Applied 10-10-10 fertilizer to blueberries, blackberries, and grapes in the Berry Patch. All were beginning to break dormancy, although I have concerns about what this later-than-usual cold snap might have done to all those buds, as well as the early-to-break-dormancy-and-leaf-out plum tree in the orchard.

 

►Planted cool season transplants in the raised beds in the Box Garden. As I watched the calendar march through March, I knew that I wouldn't have time to rely on seeding these veggies for a good harvest this year. So I put in 4 kinds of lettuce transplants (red and green Romaine, Buttercrunch, and Red Sails), and then seeded for Black-seeded Simpson and more Buttercrunch; 2 kinds of broccoli transplants, along with red cabbage and spinach transplants. Then, as soon as I planted the boxes and let Mother Nature shower them overnight, I put row covers on to protect the tender transplants. Box Garden looks like it has been eaten by giant caterpillars again. Sigh.

►I also seeded some Danver's half-long carrots to one box. Then, I finally, finally got my peas planted on the fence in the Block Garden...just before this latest dip into the 20's. I haven't checked to the damage yet. Fingers crossed. Again.

►To repair some bare spots in our lawns, we overseeded with grass seed and slow release fertilizer. I got out our soil test for the front yard and realized that we didn't add the second application of phosphorus last year (our soil was so low in phosphorus that we couldn't add enough in one season, so we had to break the application into two parts). We'll put that chore on this weekend's list, as rain is predicted...and a good watering-in by Mother Nature will be perfect.

►Transplanted and divided some pots of liriope that our neighbor had given us last year. Also gave the existing stands of "monkey grass" their haircuts, shearing the old brown fronds before the plants begin to turn green.

Bio-Dome Seed Starter -
New Tomato Seedlings growing to the light

►Started seeds of tomatoes and peppers in my new Bio-Dome seed-starter, as you see in the picture above. I had it on top of the kitchen fridge to provide bottom-warmth for germination, but have now moved it to the counter under the warm, intense undercounter lights. 

I have 4 Roma VF, 4 Park's Whoppers, 4 Beefmasters, and 2 Cherokee Purples (new to my garden this year)...and they have all germinated! That is truly remarkable because those Romas? Well, those seeds are 5 years old! I've started some every year since I purchased the packet in 2010, keeping the remainder in the garage fridge.

I cannot tell you how happy it makes me to see tiny seeds actually come to life...almost before my very eyes. I have some transplants on order...and I will get a couple of transplants at the garden center, as I always do...but growing from seed still thrills this gardener's soul!

And the peppers? The peppers are slower to germinate than the tomatoes, but I did notice a couple of teeny, tiny stems this morning. Soon, I hope to have California Wonder, Jalapeño, Fish, Mariachi, Cherry Poppers, and Orange Blaze...those last three brand new to my garden this year. 

OK, let me get a hot cup of coffee, put on my jacket, and go see what the garden looks like today. Can't wait!

Happy hoeing!

Let's Get this (Garden) Party Started!

We are coming to the end of a long, cold Winter, I hope. I do so fervently hope! We had the first really warm, dry weekend of the year...as in, two whole days in a row of beautiful weather when both of us could work in the garden. And work we did!

►First up: pruning the roses. All 60 bushes! Yes, you may notice a reduction in the total number because the extremely harsh Winter we have just survived was quite unkind to 3 of the newest: two First Prize (pink) and one New Day (yellow), all  hybrid teas. And, most...if not all...of the remaining ones suffered damage in some way or other. Sigh.

Unpruned roses in
The Way Back Rose Garden

Still, that gave me a good excuse (like I really needed one) to order three new Grandifloras: Sweetness, Lagerfeld, and Wild Blue Yonder (AARS-winner)...all purple er, lavender, since the Rose World doesn't really recognize "purple" as a proper color for roses. Right. Plus, I will be ordering a Midas Touch, an AARS-winning hybrid tea which is my fave yellow rose of all time, and two The Alnwick® Rose, a beautiful pink David Austin "English shrub" rose.

I prepared for the chore by reading up on →rose pruning basics and by purchasing a →new pair of pruning shears. Both steps helped to make this the EASIEST year yet for pruning all our Rose Garden beauties.

→Basics: I have been researching Rose Pruning for a Master Gardening program I will be presenting in early March. I've used many sources, but I'll give a shout-out to the easiest to read, although it is an ancient publication by internet standards (1994): Roses for North Carolina. Here's what the NC State author had to say about pruning:

Pruning: Pruning could be one of the most important and necessary steps in growing roses. Correct pruning will improve the overall shape, promote new, healthier growth, and eliminate dead, (damaged), or diseased canes. Most of the annual pruning in North Carolina should be done in the spring, just as the buds break dormancy. [This is usually quoted as 'when the forsythia blooms'.] The most important thing is to look at the buds. The gardener who prunes too early will gamble future growth to frost, and one who prunes too late will have a plant weakened by loss of sap. So watch for the buds, when they begin to swell, go ahead and prune. Spring pruning also allows for removal of wood which was damaged by the winter. This is helpful in the overall shaping of the rose. The height of the plant can be controlled by pruning, and even after a severe pruning new canes will usually grow to the desired height.

Sharp pruning shears are necessary. Pruning cuts should be clean and at a (45-degree)slant. The wood should be removed about 1/4 inch above an outside bud. Be sure to cut a cane down to a point where the cross-section shows no sign of discoloration. Periodically dip the pruning shears in a 70% alcohol solution to decrease spread of disease organisms. Tree roses are pruned primarily for shape, thus requiring severe pruning cuts. Climbers are pruned according to class. The spring flowering ramblers are pruned immediately after blooming. The old wood is removed to stimulate new growth which will flower the next year. Many climbers are pruned to be kept within a basic boundary with the older canes pruned. Corrective pruning and pruning diseased canes should be done as soon as necessary.

Pruning, like thinning, is hard for me. Really, really hard. As I said to Mr. T while we were wielding our shears and whacking branches left and right, "I feel like Morticia." (Any Addams Family fans out there?) But, I have learned that the better job I do at pruning the roses in the late Winter, the fewer pests (critters and diseases) I will have to deal with come Summer. And the better quality of blooms I get! Win-win, as they say!!

Of course, a "better job" of pruning really depends on a "better class" of pruners. For years, I have used a pair of Fiskars general purpose pruners...mainly because they were inexpensive and readily available locally (I tend to loose them). But for the past few years, the arthritis in my hands has progressively worsened...leaving me in pain after a weekend of pruning our roses. Not this year. I was determined to find something different...something better. Let the research begin!

→Pruning Shears: The gold standard for rose professionals has long been Felco bypass pruning shears. Ask any Rosarian and you will most certainly hear the virtues of the brand extolled. Not my personal choice, though.  You see, I have these short, pudgy, arthritic hands, and I just haven't had much luck with getting pruners, including the top-of-the-line, to fit comfortably...until now, that is.

First, I found an interactive comparison guide to pruning shears online, which is great but does NOT include all models (as I was to learn later in my research). It did give me some guidance...and introduce me to the concept of shears for small hands, as well as some new names (at least for me) in the biz. It also helped me narrow down what I was seeking in my new pruners: shorter length, lighter weight, and ergonomic design. As always, I wanted to find the best...but my economical self was still in the room.

Since local offerings of the names on the list are slim-to-none (and Slim left town...pah-dum-pum!), I ordered several varieties from Amazon.com, including Fiskars, Corona, and Bahco, and gave them the squeeze test. It was immediately apparent which one would be the one I'd choose to whack my way through 60+ rose bushes: the Bahco. Surprise!

I'd never heard of Bahco before this, but after a weekend of heavy pruning, I will never be without Bahco Ergonomic Pruner for Small Hands PX-S2 again. I'm returning the others, considering the return shipping cost to be a small price to pay for being able to compare the different models in my kitchen (I couldn't actually use them to prune outdoors, since I knew I'd be returning them; so, I was limited in my "test" to holding and pretend-pruning).

So, here you have a picture of the Rose Garden as it looked on Monday morning. If you compare this to the one above, you will notice that you can see the containers around the bird bath...something that was hidden before.  The eagle-eyed among you might even spot Mr. T (upper left corner of the shot...:-).

Pruned roses
in The Way Back Rose Garden

►Second: preparing for planting potatoes. I prepped 6 bags (three black, three blue), as shown in the picture below. I plan on using the blue bags to grow the purple-skinned potatoes called Midnight Moon, that I have ordered from Burpee. Yes, I said purple potatoes! Cannot wait to see how they turn out this year!

Potato Grow Bags...
All ready for St. Patrick's Day!

I have had such good success with Grow Bags in the past, especially when I get the planting mix right. I use 1/3 top soil (bagged), 1/3 compost (bagged, mushroom), and 1/3 shredded leaves, with about 1/4 cup bone meal mixed into the bottom layer. Makes a perfect light, lofty soil for potatoes. Then, when it comes time to "hill up" as the green part of the plants grow bigger, I add more leaves and compost to create an easy, light medium for harvesting the potatoes. Heck, you can just stick your hand into the bag and grab a few early potatoes if you want!

►Last: cleaning up. While I concentrated on the roses and the potato prep, Mr. T worked like two men possessed on cleaning up the whole 1/4 acre we call the Way Back. It's surprising how much mess a hard Winter plus two Pound Puppies can generate in 4 months. If you look closely at the photo above, you can see where Winston likes to play King of the Hill!  On top of the bags of leaves, next to the fence. Whew...what an energetic puppy!

We did have a bit of excitement this weekend. Mr. T received a FitBit Flex wristband for Valentine's Day from moi. [For those of you who haven't read about our foray into fitness, check out the posts on our family blog, The Adsit Adventure.] Sunday night, after a day spent almost entirely in the garden, he noticed that the wristband was no longer on his arm. Uh oh. He took the flashlight out to the Way Back, but you can imagine how much luck he had with that. And, no luck by the light of Monday morning either. So, Monday afternoon after he'd finished work, he dumped both yard-waste toters...filled with prickly rose branches and other prunings...out; no luck there either.

He started making the round of "where I was at different times of the day," when he went to the compost bin where he'd dumped the remains of the prunings of the 4 pampas grass clumps. He pulled the front side forward and there it was...just hanging there, like it was waiting for him to find it. Relief!

BTW, about that foray into fitness? You might have read about my (pretend) bike ride across the USA to Disneyland in order to get/keep me in shape for gardening this year. Well, folks...it must be working! I challenged my body by working in the garden for 10-12 hours over the weekend...lots of reaching, pulling, lifting, twisting, stretching, kneeling, etc.; and I am here to report that, other than sore arm muscles, I felt fine on Monday morning! Hurrah!!

Now, we have snow in the forecast for tomorrow (!), but it should be a non-event. And we should be heading into warmer days as we flip the calendar over on Saturday. This gardener, for one, cannot wait!

Happy hoeing!

Get in Shape to Garden in 2014

We live in the Land of Three-Season Gardening, meaning we are able to have something producing for about 10 months out of the year. With row covers, we can stretch that through the worst winter weather, down to about 24-26 degrees. I haven't checked yet, but I imagine the single-digit temps of the past two days probably nipped most, if not all, the remaining vegetables in the Box Garden. Ah well. It's time for a little rest.

Or, is it? If we gardeners take the months of January and February off while our gardens rest, we run the risk of sore muscles, aching backs, and/or strains, sprains, tears, and other assorted injuries once we return to playing in the dirt. Been there...done most of those...got the Bio-Freeze to prove it.

So, this year things will be different. I am implementing an exercise plan that will focus on keeping me limber and flexible, along with strengthening my upper arms (needed for lifting) and my abdominable and gluteal muscles (which give the support needed for a stronger lower back). 

I took a look at (1) what muscles are used for what tasks and (2) what muscles have given me the most trouble in the past. I also took a hard look at my own relationship with exercising in general. 

1. What muscles are needed for what tasks:

Gluteals: Weeding and planting or seeding while squatting and bending.

Abdominals: Weeding on hands and knees; hoeing and raking; manual cultivating or tilling; harvesting; turning and adding compost; digging; and starting a tiller or mower.

Thighs and calves: Pushing a wheelbarrow, pulling a wagon; weeding while squatting and bending; lifting heavy bags of compost, soil, and soil additives; and digging.

Back: Weeding on hands and knees; raking or hoeing; bending to plant seeds; carrying watering cans, 2-gallon sprayers, and trugs; harvesting; digging; and starting a tiller or mower.

Arms and shoulders: Weeding on hands and knees; raking and hoeing; pushing a wheelbarrow, pulling a wagon; pruning; spraying; and turning and adding compost.

Heart: Digging, heavy lifting, and general stamina.

2. What muscles have given me the most trouble:

Gluteals: I dearly love my new raised beds, but I have noticed that my glutes are sorer than ever, after a day of squatting.

Abdominals: While I can't say I feel pain here, I know that my abs are much too weak to provide the proper support for my back.

Thighs and calves: Minor soreness, but major need at the beginning of the gardening season.

Back: Major area of concern, especially the lower back.

Arms and shoulders: Lots of soreness here.

(Heart: Not presently a problem, but need to protect from effects of aging.)

Taking all the above into consideration, here is what I have worked out:

A. Stationary bicycling, 5-6/days per week— I have a NordicTrack recumbent stationary bicycle, and I am using Google maps to map out a bike trip from home to Disneyland...2600 miles, which is 50 miles a week for 52 weeks. [Read more about this experience over on our family blog The Adsit Adventure (http://adsit2.blogspot.com)] This works on my glutes, thighs, and calves...and my abs to a lesser degree. An added plus: if I ride 14-15 mph, I can get my heart rate up to 125-130 range, which is 80% of maximum for a 60 year-old, and yields a decent cardio workout for my heart.

B. A stretching and strengthening exercise regime, 3-4/days per week — Based on a menu for a "moderate" workout in the book Garden Your Way to Health and Fitness by Bunny Guinness and Jacqueline Knox, page 45, I am doing the following:

+ Squats – 10 reps (works thighs and glutes)

+ Lunges – 10 reps each leg (works thighs and glutes)

+ Weights – 10 reps each arm: lifting a 2-gallon container of water, weighing about 17 pounds (works arms and shoulders)

+ Resistance bands – 10 reps each: curls (works arms and shoulders)

As we get closer to Spring, I will add more outdoor activities. Until then, I will rely on this plan to keep me limber and flexible during the "resting" months.

If you would like to join me, remember to get an ok from your health care professional. My family practice doc is a proponent of a daily dose of exercise, especially for those of us with arthritis, and he is really enthusiastic about the recumbent bike for those of us with back problems.

Time to ride!

Wrapping Up 2013

December view of Box Garden,
from Center path in Way Back

Here's a snap (left) of the Box Garden, all covered up for the recent cold weather.  You'd never guess there are carrots, beets, spinach, broccoli, collards, and lettuces under those row covers, would you? And onions...lots and lots of onions! Oh, and some garlic in the Center Square...almost forgot about that.

Turnip Greens, growing in
the Way Back Row Garden

You might also see a row of green in the middle-upper left. That's a row of Seven Tops turnip greens, which don't seem to mind the frosty temps in the least. The more frost, the better the taste! Here's a close up I took of that very productive row a few weeks ago, right:

Unless you are a gardener...or farmer...you may think that the Winter months are a time of rest and reflection; a time to relax, have another cup of coffee, and enjoy the arriving seed catalogs...far removed from the soil. You would only be partially correct.

As the year comes to a close, there are several things on our To Do list before we can put the Way Back gardens to bed:

1. Apply dormant oils to orchard trees, berry bushes, and roses. (That's what I'm working on later today...when the temps hit 50. Remember my motto: "Between 50 and 90...no lower, no higher." In summer I say, "Noon or 90...whichever comes first." But that doesn't apply here...:-)
2. Remove the remaining vegetation in the Kitchen Row Garden.
3. Till up the rows in the Kitchen Row Garden.
4. Add lime to rows and to rose garden, per Soil Test Report.
5. Mow over and collect remaining leaves on the ground in the Way Back. Add to gardens for mulch and compost. (Mr. T actually got the leaf-mowing done a couple of days ago, so we can check this one off the list.)

To elaborate a bit...

Dormant Oils -- So called because they are applied in the dormant season (winter months in the Northern Hemisphere) before bud break in late February to mid-March (in USDA Zone 7b in the Piedmont area of NC), a more accurate name would be horticultural oils, because they can be used at other times of the season (at lesser strengths). Because there are NO leaves or buds on the plants to be sprayed, we can use the oils at full-strength, as directed on the label ("the label is the law"). The winter applications of these include "All Seasons" Dormant Oil, Copper-Sulfate, and Lime-Sulfur Oil, which we purchase in concentrated form and then mix with water in a 2-gallon pump-sprayer.

As I have said before, I try my best to use the kindest, gentlest methods of pest control possible, preferring a natural choice...although I stop short of saying that I am an "organic" gardener.

The trickiest part is getting the "environment" right: temperatures must be above 45 degrees (preferably less than 70) when sprayed; there must be no rain and/or freezing temperatures forecasted for at least 24 hours; and the wind should be negligible-to-light (less than 5 mph). Finding a day that meets all of those criteria in December is tough...but fortunately today is almost perfect to get started! Yes, we could postpone until January...but we can't wait too long because (ideally) we will want to do another spraying after 30-45 days, and that second spraying MUST be done before bud-break...which can sometimes surprise you in mid-February. Plus, we can't spray the Lime Sulfur or the Copper Sulfate at the same time as the Dormant Oil without risking vegetation damage; we have to wait 1-3 weeks...and until we have ALL the right "environmental" conditions.

A good way to remember WHEN to spray is to think in terms of Holidays: New Year's for the first spraying, Valentine's for the second. That should give you a little wiggle room for dealing with the vagaries of the weather.

Here is some great information on Dormant Oils:
http://extension.missouri.edu/phelps/documents/Horticulture_News/Time_for_Dormant_Oil_Application.pdf
http://ucanr.edu/sites/marinmg/files/116758.pdf

Remaining vegetation -- As you have seen, we still have a good stand of turnip greens in one of the rows that we need to till (more on that in a minute), which I will harvest and cook for my "Good Luck Greens" on New Year's Day...putting the rest in the freezer. I'm the only one that eats turnip greens, so I'll have plenty to keep me busy until next Fall...no worries! My original plan was to leave the greens to "go to seed," which means they send up flower stalks...and serve as excellent attractors for the pollinators (bees, mainly) that we will need for the orchard in a couple of months. And, we still have a few okra stalks still hanging on to their roots that must go to China. All of that has to be removed so we can...

Till up the rows -- We have two main reasons for tilling up the rows in the Kitchen Row Garden: (a) to turn the soil over to expose overwintering pests, especially the squash vine borer; and (b) to add amendments like lime (per our Soil Test report) and compost (like leaves). While adopting a no-till policy is admirable, we find that a winter-till is more beneficial to our soil and our harvests. Hence, the change in plan about the greens being left to flower.

Of course, we have to wait until we have dry soil to till...and that has thus far eluded us this month. We got another 1" of rain yesterday, so it will be early January before we can check this chore off the list. Sigh. Oh well, while we are awaiting dry soil, we can catch up on a couple of things inside...by the fire...with a warm beverage in hand...

Journaling -- I have been pretty faithful in keeping my Garden Journal this year, but the Holidays played havoc with my resolve to write. I want to have a good verbal "picture" of the gardens in 2013 so that I can begin planning 2014 in earnest.  That's where the letter carrier comes in!

Perusing the arriving Seed Catalogs -- Oh yes, they are arriving daily, sometimes 2 or 3 a day...making me feel for our letter carrier. And I see that along with the usual suspects (red tomatoes, green peppers, and orange carrots), the Color Purple is becoming quite popular in the vegetative universe. Purple carrots. Purple-podded (green) peas. Purple-skinned potatoes. I kid you not.

And, we know how I love to trial new things in the gardens!

Happy hoeing!

Moving the Action Indoors: Amaryllis

Checked the calendar on Wednesday: just six weeks to Christmas! And that brings thoughts of one of my favorite indoor blooms...amaryllis. Of course, there are many parts of the world where amaryllis bloom naturally outdoors, and I do put my spent bulbs outside during the Spring and Summer months, but for us here in USDA Zone 7B, we have to force the bulbs to bloom "out of season" for those lovely blooms during the Holidays.

Here's a picture (right) of Red Lion blooming from last year...or, actually from earlier this year. I did not get the process going on time in the last weeks of Summer 2012, so they didn't bloom at Christmas...they bloomed at New Year's.

 

Process, you say? What process?

Many people who receive a blooming amaryllis for a gift simply toss the bulb when the blooms fade. Being the primal garbage gardener that I am, I cannot do that. I have to at least give reblooming a try. I found this great step-by-step approach from the US National Arboretum that outlines how to make it work: click here to go there.

As I said, I leave the potted (spent) bulbs, with the strappy leaves intact, outside during the warmer months. This year, I snipped off the leaves, dug them up, and brought the bulbs inside mid-September, in order to give them a good 8-week resting period. 

The bulbs spent this "time-out" in a divided box (originally made for Ball canning jars) in the guest bathroom tub (coolest place I could think of)...a room that stayed dark the entire period. There is no window in that room, and we did not turn on the light, or even enter it for the resting period.

I have been mulling over how to display them this year, wanting to do a little better than just individual plants in individual pots. I thumbed through one of my indoor gardening books, "Tabletop Gardens," by Rosemary McCreary (Storey Publishing, 2006) to get an inspiration, and then I revisited my Master Gardener Speakers Bureau binder on a presentation I gave on Containers for some ideas.

And then, during a retail therapy visit to Big Lots, I happened across these ginormous Christmas-themed wine glasses...clearly marked "FOR DECORATIVE PURPOSES ONLY." Inspiration, ideas, and opportunity all collided...and two of those 'glasses' came home with me.

My vision was to create two mirror-image tabletop container gardens for the dining room table Holiday centerpiece with three amaryllis bulbs each (they would eventually grow up to be the Thrillers), a tuft of a soft-bladed houseplant each (they would be the Fillers), and several long stems of English ivy, pulled from the over-run bed in front of our house (these would be the Spillers). I chose the wine glasses with the red and black Santa suit theme because I wanted to use as the center of this centerpiece tableau a wicker pot "cover" that is black with red accents...looks like Frosty the Snowman's top hat turned over...to contain a plain pot holding the largest amaryllis bulbs variety I have called 'Sydney.' Oh yes, Big Daddy (Sidney Lunn) is with us for every Holiday meal!

First, I gathered my materials: aquarium charcoal (acts as a filtering agent for containers that don't have drainage holes), sphagnum peat moss (a lighter planting medium than potting soil...holds moisture better), some small river rock (serves as a good 'anchor' base between the charcoal on the bottom of the glasses and the peat moss as the nesting medium for the bulbs and the companion plants) to support the emerging roots. I also got a narrow-spaded trowel and a pair of latex gloves...easier for me to work in than outdoor garden gloves. As I was working inside (too cold to work at my potting bench outside), I covered my workspace in newspaper. Meanwhile, I removed the amaryllis bulbs from their resting box to a large bowl filled with lukewarm water; I wanted to give them a good soak before planting them and get them well-hydrated after their 8-week resting period.

Gathering materials for container gardens

Then, I hand-washed and dried the containers. I placed a layer of charcoal (purchased at Petsmart, in the Fish section), followed by a layer of small river rocks. Then I scooped in a layer of peat moss. 

Unique containers for the Holidays

I first placed the Fillers (to one side of one glass container, mirroring their placement in the other container), since they had the most-developed existing root structure and needed the greatest depth of planting medium (peat moss). I added the long stems of ivy (the Spillers), pushing the root-end deep into the peat moss, adding more as needed for support/anchorage. 

Finally, I arranged three (well-hydrated) bulbs in each of the glasses and one large bulb in the single clay container. I added a bit of peat moss to cover any stray roots...but not too much. Amaryllis bulbs grow best if most of the bulb is showing. I added some larger river rocks on the top. Then I misted everything thoroughly, washing any stray planting media off the sides of the containers. 

Ready to add the amaryllis bulbs

Thrillers, Fillers, and Spillers added to containers

To finish up for the time being, I moved all containers to the warmest, sunniest window in the house...and set a light on a timer to make sure they are receiving plenty of light to stimulate bloom-growth. I will keep daily tabs and will mist as often as needed, keeping the media moist but NOT soggy. Remember, there are no drainage holes in the glass containers, and the last thing I want is to develop root-rot.

And hopefully, I'll be posting pictures soon of beautiful blooms!